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Friday Flies

Friday Flies: The Default #1 by Paul Johnson

The Default #1
Written and tied by Paul Johnson

The Default #1 has become a staple in my Rainbow Trout/Steelhead box. I came up with this pattern because I wanted a fly that would be easy and quick to tie, making it easier to load a lot of patterns into my box. 

This fly showcases a big factor when targeting Rainbows/Steelhead… flash. The vinyl rib adds a bit of texture to the fly. I chose clear so the holographic tinsel shines right through making it an eye catcher for any fish that sees it. Holographic tinsel provide the tyer with a lot of different possible color combinations. This fly can be tied from bright colors to more earth tone colors depending on where you’re fishing. In addition, the TMC 2457 hooks are strong which is why this fly can handle the Steelhead we are targeting in the Great Lakes Region.

So, if you’re looking for a pattern to add into your box make sure this is one of them! 

Step 1: Put the bead onto the hook and secure it in your vise.

Step 2: Put a layer of thread down behind the bead making sure to wrap down to the back end of the barb.

Step 3: Tie in a 3” piece of Vinyl Rib starting from behind the bead making wraps back. Make sure to only go back the same distance with thread wraps as you did in the previous step so everything is even.


Step 4:

Tie in a piece of the Holographic Tinsel the same length as the vinyl rib. After tying the tinsel in work your thread wraps up the hook to just behind the bead.

Step 5: Grab the Holographic Tinsel wrapping it up the hook until you get to where your thread is. Make sure your forward wraps are overlapping each other. Lock down the tinsel with two thread wraps. 

Step 6:

Repeat step 6 with the Vinyl Rib.

Step 7: Twist the ice dub onto the thread then make wraps until you form a small dubbing ball behind the bead.

Step 8: Pull apart and re-stack a small amount of Laser Dub until you have a sparse piece about an inch wide.

Step 9: Center tie the Laser Dub so that half the material is hanging out in front of the hook and lock in with two thread wraps right behind the bead then pull the front most portion of the laser dub down below the bead while moving your thread in front of it. Lay down two to four strong thread wraps to lock it all in place.

Step 10: Trim the laser dub so there is a small amount past the bend of the book.

Step 11: Whip finish and go fish!

Recipe

:
Thread: Veevus 12/0 Fluorescent Orange
Hook: TMC 2457 #14
Cyclops Beads 7/64 White
Ice Dub in Caddis Green
Senyo’s Laser Dub in White
Midge Vinyl Rib in Clear
Holographic Tinsel Medium in Fuchsia

Friday Flies: Simple Tube Fly by Ryan Ratliff

Maybe it is because I am getting older, maybe it’s because I prefer simplicity, or maybe it is because I like to be different…whatever the reason, I really love swinging a fly.  It might not be the best technique for every situation but I try to swing as much as possible. Lately when late Summer rolls around there have been few fishing situations that come up. Low clear water means crawfish and small streamers. From Smallmouth to Carp to Buffalo to Rock Bass a small pattern slowly crawled/swung along the bottom will bring success. Sight fishing to spooky fish in low clear water is a challenge though. Swinging allows for a stealthy approach at a distance and is easy to detect strikes.  This technique does not require a tube fly, but the versatility of changing hook styles is a huge benefit. 
The end of Summer also brings thoughts of Fall steelhead and trout fishing. Water levels have also been very low and clear into the Fall on the cold water streams. Brown Trout are looking to move towards spawning areas and small sculpin and crawfish are a threat to a Redd. The Steelhead are aggressive after spending all Summer chasing baitfish in the lake and that aggression often carries over into the streams. Just like the warmwater fish, the Trout and Steelhead can become very spooky in the clear water. Swinging a small baitfish close to the bottom well downstream can be the best approach.  
With the popularity of smaller and lighter weight spey rods it is now easier to fish many different size waterways.  Tube flies are often associated with just swinging though. A small tube fly can be stripped as long as you balance the weight of the hook with the action you want out of the fly. No matter what method you like to fish, take a look at the versatility of adding tube flies to your fly box! 
Step 1: Cut a short piece of Ultra Tubing roughly a 3rd of a stick. Cut a wedge an the end of the tube (so that the junction tubing will fit on easily).
Step 2: Start your thread at the halfway mark on the tube.  Place a small amount of glue over the thread.
Step 3: Add a short piece of rabbit strip and lash down right on the thread wraps.
Step 4: Prep a schlappen feather by holding at the tip and folding/stroking down the fibers. Trim off the tip and tie in the feather at that point.
Step 5: Palmer the schlappen feather with tight side by side wraps.
Step 6: Add a small amount of glue or UV Resin to the base of the feather and slightly up on the fibers.  Using a bodkin is a great choice to control where the glue is applied.  This will help keep the fibers rigid and not lay down flat along the body.
Step 7: Form a dubbing loop and place the rabbit strip in the loop. With long scissors cut the fur off of the hide.  Using the Loon D-Loop tweezers helps to make this much easier. Hold open the dubbing loop with a dubbing spinner tool. I am using the Smhaen dubbing spinner here. Carefully place the rabbit fur in the loop and spin.  
Step 8: Palmer the dubbing loop forward tightly. Tie off and trim the loop. Paint the front base of the fur with UV resin. Before you cure the resin, make sure the fur is evenly perpendicular around the tube. This will help create a good collar around the tube.  
Step 9: Whip finish/half hitch if desired (the resin will glue the thread down)
Step 10: Slide a medium sized conehead of the desired color onto the tube. Trim the end of the tubing to just slightly past the cone.  

Step 11: Pull the fly off of the tapered needle and add a small section of Aqua Tubing to the back of the tube with the angled cut. The easiest way to do this is by twisting the tubing as you push it on the tube.  
Step 12: Using a lighter, heat up the end of the tube (by the cone) with the blue section of the flame. Spin it as you heat it carefully. This will create a mushroom shape in the tube to hold the cone onto the tube.  
Here I have chosen a fl. orange tube as a hotspot, but feel free to change colors of any of these materials to match your specific baitfish or crayfish. To rig up this fly simply slide your tippet through the tube and tie to a #4-6 Aqua Talon hook. Next tighten the tippet to pull the hook eye into the flexible junction tubing. You can fish this hook point up or down depending on your situation.
Recipe:
Thread: Veevus 6/0 
Tail: Black Barred Rabbit Strips (Gold Variant)
Collar 1: Fish Hunter Select Schlappen (Galloup’s Brown Olive)
Collar 2: Magnum Rabbit Strips Grizzly (Natural) Use fur in a dubbing loop
Head: Coneheads (color of your choice, sizes med or large)
Junction Tubing: Aqua Tubing
Hook: Aqua Talon #4-#6

Friday Flies: Ol’ Mr. Wiggly by Pat Kelly

Popularized and developed in 2010 by Charlie Piette and the guys over at Tightlines Fly Fishing Co in Wisconsin, Ol’ Mr. Wiggly was a much needed topwater fly that filled a void in the surface game when a traditional popper was simply overkill and too abrasive. At this point, the use of this pattern and its effectiveness in low clear water conditions for Smallmouth Bass fishing is no longer a secret. It is essential when trying to unlock the fickle and technical nature of the Smallmouth in the low clear water of Summertime. Long leaders and drag free drifts become the name of the game if you want to consistently fool big Smallmouth Bass.  

One of the reasons I think this fly is so productive in these difficult conditions is that it plays on the fishes instinctual nature to be a sampler. In late Summer, when the water is very low and clear you are dealing with very educated and spooky Bass. Often times even a dead drifted popper is overkill and one needs a fly that is unobtrusive with very subtle movements. When fishing this fly, treat it just like a dry fly. Long leaders, lighter tippet, and focusing on the right angle of approach coupled with drag free drifts with no more than an occasional twitch are critical to consistent success. When float fishing out of a boat it can be very effective to stand in an elevated position and sight fish, picking out ideal spots or individual fish.       

This style of fishing is not for everyone. It requires discipline and the willingness to fail. But for the angler who keeps faith in the process and the belief it will work one can reap the benefits of one of the most rewarding ways to fool a fish!

For more information on this technique as well as many others be sure to check out Smallmouth: Modern Fly Fishing Methods, Tactics and Techniques. 

Step 1: Before starting the foam body of the Wiggly it is important to lay a solid base of tying thread first. This will serve as a strong foundation for your foam body so that it does not shift, spin, or move around on you. If you tie a fly, tie it well so they are built to last. 

Step 2: Cut a strip of Loco Foam approximately 1/4″-3/8″ in width and 3″ in length. The length is less critical as it can be trimmed later (this is my preferred size for this particular  hook/pattern size, so adjust accordingly). Fold the foam in half so the material is doubled over with the split end tied off the rear of the hook. Like I stated earlier this end will be trimmed after the fact, so length is not critical. Most of the time I will trim the tail after the fly is finished and is subjective and based on what you like the look of. I generally shoot for about as long as the hook gap is wide. This is Merica’ so do what you want. The folded end you want to hang over the eye of the hook approximately 2-3 eye widths.

There are many different varieties of sheet foam out there on the market, anything that is roughly 1.5-2mm in thickness will work just fine. I personally use Blane Chocklett’s Loco Foam. I prefer this material because it comes in a variety of cool colors. One side is a little flashier and the other side is a more dulled out version of the given color. This is nice because depending on how I want my Wiggly to look, I can fold the foam one way or the other. Can I get a foam a little less expensive somewhere else, sure but I like supporting the fly tying industry and my friends who are the driving force behind it.  

Step 3: Make the first wrap close to in line with the barb of the hook. I’ll make 3-4 wraps getting progressively tighter, securing the foam in place. Before proceeding to the next segment I will advance the thread forward, make a few wraps around the shank and then return my thread to the first body segment and make a few more securing wraps. This technique will help minimize the amount of spinning and foam rolling out of position. Use this technique on every body segment throughout the tying process.

Step 4: Continue up the hook shank creating a total of four body segments. 

Step 5: While the thread is hanging on the fourth body segment, select a small bundle of Senyo’s Predator Wrap- UV Silver about 1.5″ long and center tie it along each side of the body. This step just adds an element of buggyness that could be perceived as legs or part of the wings. Once tied in on each side, return the fly to it’s upright position and trim them so they are about as long as the hook gap is wide. 

Step 5: Advance your thread forward, leaving about one eye width of room and tie down the foam. This step will create the last body segment. This will also be where we will tie in our rubber legs.

Step 6: Select three to four rubber legs and center tie them in place on either side of the body. Once tied in and secured, move thread forward to in front of the last segment but behind the eye. Build up a little thread bump to help prop up the over hanging foam. This will help the fly push a little water and make it easier to tie the fly on. Whip finish and tie off thread. Lay down a dollop of Z-Ment on the underside at each one of the body segments to help with fly durability.

Step 7: Before taking the fly out of the vice, get ahold of your rubber legs and pull them toward the back of the hook. If you trim the legs longer than the hook or body of the fly is they will tend to fowl and the pattern will spin. I try to trim them so they are extending to about the point or barb of the hook. I would rather err on the long side here as I can always cut and remove a little length if need be. 

Summer is flying by and will be gone before you know it, so get out there and fish a Wiggly or Popper and get it while the gettin is good!!   

To hear more on this fly and technique check out this video, where Tim Landwehr talks about “Ol’ Mr. Wiggly”  

Recipe
Thread: Veevus Power Thread 140
MFC Wide Gap Streamer Straight Eye Hook #2
Chocklett’s Loco Foam (Damsel Blue or color of choice)
Senyo’s Predator Wrap (UV Silver or color of choice)
Chicone’s Regular Crusher Legs (Black Barred Clear or color of choice)  

Friday Flies: Blane Chocklett’s Mini Feather Jerk Changer Tied by Pat Kelly

The Jerk Changer is one of the many brainchild’s of Blane Chocklett and just one of his many contributions to the fly tying and fly fishing industry. In 2009 I can remember meeting Blane Chocklett for the first time. I was invited to the International Fly Tying Symposium in Somerset, NJ. While taking a rare and much needed break to get up and stretch my legs I knew I did not have much time and I knew exactly what I wanted to do with the little time I had, go meet Blane! Up to this point in my life he was only someone I had heard/read about. Other than myself and a couple of friends, he was one of only a few people that were consistently catching Musky on a fly rod at the time. As a kid it took most of the courage I could muster up just to approach this legend of the tying/fishing industry. Fast forward thirty minutes later while walking back to my table and I could not believe what a nice, down to earth and humble person he was. Getting a chance to talk to him about fly design and musky flies back then was a game changer for me as I was just a couple years into my professional career as a fisherman and guide. Looking back and reflecting on that weekend in 2009 there were a couple things I never would have imagined (at the time). First and most importantly was the friendship I gained from that introduction. Blane is one of the most kind and genuine people I have ever met and I can call him a friend for life. I can not thank you enough for all your support and encouragement over the years. Secondly, was the positive impact and the amount of change he would have on our sport and all of the good he has done. 

The Jerk Changer, like most of his patterns, is a platform. It can be adapted, tweaked, and manipulated to be used in a variety of different watersheds for a variety of different species. For that reason, it is one of my all time favorite flies. Big or small, natural or synthetic, it doesn’t matter which, just tie some and go fishing and I am confident you will enjoy this pattern as much as I do!
Step 1: Start by inserting a 10mm Next Gen Shank into the vise and lay down a foundation of thread from the eye all the way to the back. Cut a small bunch of UV Polar Chenille – Gold and tie in so it extends behind the shank. Try to keep this material as close to its full length as possible. This part of the fly serves two purposes. One is to add inner flash to the tail. Second is to provide some rigidity under our tail feathers, this will help keep the feathers flat but also keep them straight and prevent them from twisting during the tying and fishing process.
Step 2: Select two or three small and narrow hen feathers from the top of the saddle and tie them in on each side of the shank with the concave side of the feathers facing inward toward each other. 
Step 3: Select a piece of Chocklett’s Finesse Chenille- Medium, strip away some of the fibers exposing the core, tie in and make two or three open spiral wraps and tie off, leaving approximately one eye width of room. 
Step 4: Select two more hen saddles similar in size to your tail feathers, tie in by the tip and palmer them forward to the eye and tie off. Finish with a little Z-Ment for durability.
Step 5: Before removing this shank, attach the next 10mm shank. Once attached insert into the vise. Be sure to wrap your base of thread as far back up the shank as you can. This will help build a finished fly with minimal gaps and spacing between sections.

Step 6: Just as before tie in the Finesse Chenille- Medium and wrap forward leaving just enough room to palmer two hen saddles. Keep in mind that the hen feathers you select for this next section are a little longer and a little wider. This will help build shape and size to the finished fly. Tie in feathers wrap forward to the eye and tie off. Finish with a dollop of Z-Ment.
Step 7: Insert Ahrex SA280 #6 hook into the vise and begin to tie down the articulation wire. Secure the wire to just down into the bend of the hook. Slide on the previous shank and tie down second strand of the wire. I take the wire and secure it up to the eye of the hook. There is no need to double back the wire for security as there will never be any amount of pressure hanging or pulling from it.

Step 8: Tie in your Finesse Chenille- Medium and wrap tight touching wraps all the way to just between the point of the hook and the barb and tie off. Select two more feathers, again slightly wider and larger. Tie in and palmer forward and tie off. At this point you should be about halfway up the hook shank. 
Step 9: Repeat the previous step one more time. Adding a second station of prop material and palmered hen saddles. If done properly this will take you all the way to the eye of the hook. Tie off and secure with Z-Ment.
Step 10: Attach the 35mm Shank to the hook and insert into the vise. As before you will want to start your thread at the eye of the shank and lay a good foundation all the way and as far back as is possible. Again, this will minimize the gaps in the finished product giving you a cleaner looking fly.
Step 11: Same as before you will attach the Finesse Chenille (this time using the Large Finesse Chenille) to the shank and wrap tight touching wraps approximately a quarter of the way up the shank. Once tied off you will want to give a slight trim to the Chenille so that it is not quite at full length. Palmer a couple more hen saddles, tie off, and secure with a dollop of Z-Ment. 
Step 12: Repeat the previous step. Only thing that will be done differently is you will want to leave the Finesse Chenille- Large at full length. At this point, this should be the second station of prop/veil on the front shank.
Step 13: This third and final station will vary a little as we are switching over to Chocklett’s Filler Flash for the prop on this station. By switching over to the Filler Flash we are able to add a little more height and rigidity to our final prop. It also allows me to sneak in a little more flash than you can achieve with the Finesse Chenille or a brush. Once the prop has been tied in and secured you will want to veil it with 3 Hen Saddles that are quite a bit longer, wider, and webbier. This will help bring density to the front of the fly. Tie of and secure with Z-Ment.
Step 14: At this point you should be about 75% of the way up the shank. Next we will tie in pectoral fins. I often say this step is optional but as I look back and reflect on any baitfish changer I have ever tied, I always include pec fins (unless accidentally forgotten about haha). Traditionally pec fins are made of hackle/saddle tips and if you want to use that feel free, this is Merica’ after all. I got a little bored with that and decided to use the tips of a Montana Fly Company barred mini marabou feather instead. 
Step 15: Once the pec fins are tied in, you will finish the fly off with any brush you see fit. I really like the Streamer Brush from Renzetti. Tie in and wrap in dense side by side wraps all the way to the front and tie off and secure with Z-Ment. Be sure to clean the brush head up with scissors to bring a little shape and old fashion good looks to the front of the fly. 
Whether floating in a boat or wading, using a sinking, intermediate, or floating line, this fly can be used and adapted to all sorts of different conditions and fisheries. It is a quick and easy tie, by Changer standards and very fun to watch come through the water! Tie a few up for your local water and let us know what you think. If you post a picture on social media be sure to tag us and we will share it on our page.

Watch the full video here:

Friday Flies: Meal Ticket by Ben Phipps

This is my take on the “Meal Ticket” streamer. It was originally tied by Mike Schmidt. This has been an incredibly productive streamer pattern on the Mad River and a variety of other trout rivers I have tried this pattern on. I’ve seen fish peel off of a well-protected bank, as well as, come up from the depths of a deep pool to attack this fly… and it never gets old.

This fly looks great on a jerk-strip retrieve, it dives down deep and quickly on a pause and kicks wildly on a snappy retrieve. Fish will chase this fly all the way to the boat and take it a rod length away from them to you. With the articulation and dumbbell eyes combo, you can also fish this in a vertical jig type of retrieve and watch trout T-bone this fly while it’s dropping on the pause.

What I have started doing, when tying this fly, in order to achieve a myriad of different color combinations is using Ice Dub or Laser Dub for the head. This material helps build a bulky head, but more importantly, allows the tyer to mix and blend colors of different dubbings to achieve a more unique color of head to the fly.

This fly is very fun to tie and even more entertaining to fish. It swims and kicks in a sporadic way and elicits violent strikes from trout. Tie some up and try ‘em out!

Step 1: With the Trout Predator Hook #1 in vise, start thread halfway up the shank and take wraps backward just up to the start of the bend of the hook.

Step 2: Measure out a section of rabbit strip to have one hook length of material off the back of the hook for your tail, then also making sure you measure out enough material available to cover the rest of the shank toward the eye of the hook. 
Tie in the rabbit strip at the point you left your thread at right before the bend of the hook. Preen the hair of the rabbit strip away from your tie-in point to make this a clean and easy securing wrap.
Step 3: Tie in the UV Polar Chenille in tight with the rabbit strip. Make touching wraps up the hook with the UV Polar Chenille and tie off with just enough room to tie in legs.
Step 4: Select two strands of Rubber Legs and tie in one strand at the halfway point of the rubber leg, preen the forward-facing half of the strand back toward the rear facing half and secure with 3 or 4 wraps. Repeat this step with the second strand on the other side of the fly.
Step 5: Bring the lose end of the rabbit strip forward over top the shank and secure the strip to just behind the hook eye.

Step 6: Make two complete four or five turn whip finishes and snip your thread. Secure with adhesive.

Step 7: Secure a Trout Predator Hook #1/0 into the vise and lay down a thread base across the shank. Then lay your articulation wire across the shank and secure by taking wraps backward.

Step 8: Thread two 3-D articulation beads onto the wire.

Step 9: Thread the completed back hook onto the wire. Make sure the hook point is facing upward. Then secure the other end of the articulation wire to the shank of the hook.

Step 10: Measure out a rabbit strip in the same way you did for Step 2. Make sure the fur from this rabbit strip extends back to the fur on the previous hook. Pierce the leather side of the rabbit strip on the point of the hook, remove the hook from the vise jaws to slide the rabbit strip up past the barb, and past the bend of the hook. Re-secure the hook in the vise jaws.
Step 11: Tie in UV Polar Chenille right up against the rabbit strip identical to Step 4.
Step 12: Tie in a pair of medium dumbbell eyes on the top of the hook shank about one hook eye length back from the hook eye.
Step 13: Make touching wraps of your UV Polar Chenille up to the dumbbell eyes.
Step 14: Tie in 1 to 2 strands of rubber legs on each side of the hook shank up against the dumbbell eyes, similar to Step 6.
Step 15: Lay the loose end of the rabbit strip across the hook shank and tie in at right behind the dumbbell eyes.

Step 16: To create the head, take healthy clumps of Ice Dub and tie in the clumps around the entire hook shank behind the dumbbell eyes. You should ideally end up with four even clumps around.

Step 17: Using the same Ice Dub, create a long clump of dubbing and tie in at the mid-point of the dubbing clump in front of the dumbbell eyes. This will leave one long strand of dubbing hanging out of the front of your fly. Rotate your vise and tie in one addition clump of dub to the bottom of the hook in front of the dumbbell eyes. Rotate your vise back and fold back the forward-facing strand of dub back so it lays across the rest of the dub head and secure with tight wraps right behind the hook eye.
Step 18: Make two complete four or five turn whip finishes, cut and adhere the finish.

Friday Flies: BC Cranefly Larva by Brian Flechsig

Around here, we have always felt that the Cranefly Larva was the unsung hero of all nymphs! He’ll never make the cover of Fly Fisherman Magazine, but wildly important as a food source for our Brown Trout in the Mad River…..and probably for trout in your neck of the woods.

Although there were a few patterns that I have always carried with me, I couldn’t help but think there was a better, more realistic way to tie them. I just never really tried that hard, nor had any solid ideas….until…..

It was the Fall of 2020 when Blane Chocklett released his book, “Game Changer” and in that book, he reminded me of a super cool material, that he invented, called Sili Skin. It was originally used for his famous Gummy Minnow flies and then I had started using it to cover the bodies on the “Fly Pala” flies that Blane taught us. I bought a bunch and was tying both of the flies above, when the idea came to me.

We did a video on this fly a few years back maybe? Never did get around to a step-by-step here on the Blog so we figured we’d get that done here as well as a reminder. We wound up naming the fly the BC Cranefly Larva…..in honor of Blane and his amazing Sili Skin.

A very simple fly really, but a few tricks in working with the Sili Skin. Tie some up…..and fish them. You will be pleasantly surprised. Big trout LOVE cranefly larva.

Step 1: Start your thread and lay a thread base. Then weight the hook shank with .035” lead wire. You want this fly to be pretty dang heavy so about ¾ of the shank should be covered with wire. End up with your thread back at the bend of the hook.


Step 2: Tie in the Medium Silver Wire, the Olive Micro Chenille and then the Medium Gray Chenille….in that order. When tying in the Chenille, I lay it down the entire length of the hook shank, in order to build up some further bulk to the body of the fly.


Step 3: Wrap your chenille forward and tie off. Then wrap the Micro Chenille as a “rib”, evenly spaced as if you were ribbing a nymph (which you are). Tie this off, throw a few half-hitches and then cut your thread. We will restart later to secure the Sili Skin and wire rib.


Step 4: Now you will prepare the Sili Skin. Cut a piece just slightly longer than the hook shank and about 1”wide. Make a ¼” or so cut in one of the ends of the skin. This is where you will bring the wire into so you get a clean start on your wraps with it.

Step 5: Restart your thread AT THE BEND of the hook, so that you can secure the rear of the Sili Skin.


Step 6: Remove the backing from the Sili Skin, being careful that it doesn’t stick to itself. Do it slowly! Fold the Sili Skin over top of the fly and stick it to itself underneath the fly. Then cut the excess flush with the underside of the bottom of the fly. Best to use a long blade, super sharp scissors for this.


Step 7: Secure the rear of the Sili Skin at the bend of the hook with the brown thread hanging. Build up some wraps here at the bend to secure the Sili Skin, then half-hitch and cut the thread. (You’ll have to half-hitch over the wire and all). You may have to pull or pluck some excess Sili Skin from behind/under the thread wraps.


Step 8: Restart your thread at the head of the fly now, and do the same to secure the front of the Sili Skin. Now we will wind the Medium Silver wire as a rib, over top of the Sili Skin. I usually try to mimic the wraps of the Micro Chenille which can be seen through the skin. This adds a really cool look of segmentation, as well as secures the Sili Skin in place. Tie off the Wire at the head and whip finish.

Step 9: You will now finish the fly with a “candy coating” of Bone Dry UV resin. This, in conjunction with the Sili Skin, is really what makes this fly.


Take it out and fish it and be sure to let us know how it works for you!

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Friday Flies: The “Carpinator” by Pat Kelly

As much as I would love to tell you a fun filled story regarding the conception and development of the “Carpinator” one simply does not exist. The fly came from a book called Carp on the Fly, written by Brad Befus, Barry Reynolds, and John Barryman. By my estimation, this may very well be the best published book on the topic. This book set the standard and came out unapologetically. These guys were targeting carp and writing about it before people knew it was something that could be done. At some point they stopped printing this book and it was off the market for many years. I am happy to say that now, the book is available again Carp On the Fly. For whatever reason that fly was removed when the book was re-published. Since my original copy of the book is long gone I begin to doubt that it came from the book at all. I guess I’ll never know. 

What I can say is it is without a doubt my favorite Carp fly of all time. I have made some tweak’s and adjustments to improve an already stellar fly. This pattern has the unique ability to land on the water softly, sink quickly, and always lands upright on the bottom, no matter what. It can be tied in whatever color you can ponder and sizes can be adjusted to the situation at hand. In most cases, I tie it in sizes 4, 6, and 8 and use either medium or large bead chain eyes for the weight. I predominately target carp in slower moving rivers and streams so I have no need for a larger/heavier version. 

Step 1: Start your thread just behind the eye of the hook and make touching wraps to half way down the bend of the hook.


Step 2

: Snip a bundle of rabbit fur off the hide and tie in so that it rides along the bend of the hook. Make sure the beginning of your tie in point is below the shank of the hook. This will be important and explained in the next step.
 

Step 3: The bump created by the rabbit’s tie in point will create the platform by which you will mount the mono eyes. The placement and location of the mono eyes is critical to the fly landing and staying upright once it reaches the bottom and to ensure the current doesn’t knock it over.

Step 4: Once the mono eyes are secured return thread to the bottom of the tail and begin to dub a noodle of Crawdub, doing your very best to keep the amount of dubbing to a minimum. This will ensure the fly sinks quickly through the column with minimal weight. Wrap the dubbing up the hook, figure 8ing around the mono eyes and half way up the hook shank.


Step 5

:  Advance your thread up the shank to just behind the eye of the hook and secure the bead chain eyes. Once secure, take two rubber legs at full length and fold around your thread and secure, walking your thread back to where the dubbing left off. 

Step 6: Once the legs are secure, dub your way up the remainder of the hook to just behind the eyes. 

Step 7: Take a saddle from the middle of the patch. Hold by the tip and stroke the fibers downward toward the base of the stem. By doing so you will leave a small tag that you can use to tie in and secure the feather before wrapping the collar. One thing to note when tying in the feather, it pays to secure the feather so that the concave side of the feather is facing in towards the fly and facing slightly backwards. This will help make sure the fibers lay backwards when palmering your feather.

Step 8: Once the feather is palmered, tie off and secure. Advance thread to in front of the bead chain and secure with a whip finish. 

After that, take the fly out of the vise and rub it around in the river bottom before fishing. Doing this can remove your human scent and will help you convert more carp.  Hope this helps you out and thanks for reading!   

Recipe
Thread: Veevus 6/0: Color of choice
Hook: Daiichi 1650 #4
Black Barred Rabbit Strips: Gold Variant
Krystal Flash: Rootbeer
Medium Mono Eyes: Black
Crawdub: Tan
Large Bead Chain Eyes: Gold
Sili Legs Nymph: Barred Pumpkin
Soft Hackle Hen Saddle Patch: Brown


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Friday Flies: Wooly Worm by Ryan Ratliff

 

The Wooly Worm is a staple in my fly box for many different species.  Basically, it is a Wooly Bugger with a yarn tail. This fly is simple and productive!  In the right colors this fly can replicate anything from mulberries to fish eggs, to Zooplankton clusters.  Although it catches many species, Bluegills are my favorite fish by far.  Any panfish for that matter seldom let you down by turning up their nose to an improperly presented fly.  You can either match specific food like Dragon Fly nymphs or use this as an attractor in fluorescent colors.
The Wooly Worm can be fished in many different water columns.  Fish it near the surface by not adding weight and using a light wire hook or add a few wraps of lead wire to fish it deeper.  In this tutorial, we picked a slightly heavier hook to help the fly sink slowly.  Often I find that our flies will sink too fast out of the strike zone or will snag/grab debris on the bottom of lakes. When fishing lakes, a fly that sinks slowly will often out produce all other patterns. Being able to see the fly and how the fish reacts to the retrieve will teach you a lot about their behavior and what the fish like.  
It is early Spring right now and the water temps are fluctuating from the cool night temps.  A key for finding big Bluegills in the Spring is to fish drop-offs close to shallow flats.  These locations will hold fish most of the year, but in the transition seasons this is the place to be.  I like to make a long cast out over deep water, let the fly sink just out of sight and then begin slowly stripping it back.  With a floating line, the fly will slowly rise in the water column with every strip. I will try to keep the fly in view if the water clarity allows.  As you continue to strip in the fly vary your speed and pause length to keep the fly off of the bottom as not to collect debris.  Watch for the fish to actually take the fly or the end of the floating line to twitch and pull.  A small strip set is needed and you are in for a battle.  Do not be surprised if a large Bass, Catfish, Carp or anything else in the lake is on the other end!
Step 1: Place hook in vise. Start thread one hook eye length back from the eye and wrap back to the hook barb.
Step 2: Cut a short piece of Sparkle Yarn. Starting one hook eye length back from the eye carefully tie the yarn down on the hook shank.  Make sure that you create an even base with thread.  
Step 3: Cut a short length of 4x tippet (approx. five inches).  Tie it down with crossing wraps over top of the yarn and the length hanging out over the tail/back of the hook.
Step 4: Place the tippet in the material keeper back out of way. 
Step 5: Lash down Chenille evenly just like with the yarn using even thread wraps.  Place the chenille out of the way in the material keeper.
Step 6: Select a properly sized grizzly hackle and strip off fibers from the left-hand side.  Tie in the feather about an inch down from the tip.  Make sure that the fibers are facing you when you tie the hackle down.
Step 7: Advance your thread toward the eye of the hook, place a half hitch in your thread, and then place it over your bobbin holder.
Step 8: Wrap your Chenille forward evenly using the rotary feature of your vise. Tie off the Chenille making sure not to crowd the eye of the hook. Trim off the Chenille.
Step 9: Place another half hitch in your thread and place back on the bobbin cradle.  Carefully wrap your hackle forward with spaced out “candy cane” wraps.  Make sure to add an extra turn of hackle right at the head before tying off and trimming the feather.
Step 10: Place a half hitch in the thread again and place on the bobbin holder.
Step 11: Firmly grab the tippet out of the material holder.
Step 12: Wrap the tippet counter wrap style (the opposite direction as the hackle) over the hackle making sure not to trap the hackle fibers down.
Step 13: Tie off the tippet and whip finish your thread at the eye. Create a slightly larger thread head. In this pattern, a larger thread head is an expectation. This thread head is used as a hot spot.
Step 14: Trim the tail to a length just shorter than the hook shank.  Add some UV resin to the thread head and your done.  
Recipe
Hook: Tiemco 3769 Fly Hooks
Thread: 6/0 Veevus
Tippet (4x)
Aunt Lydia’s Sparkle Yarn (Orange)
Chenille-Medium (Tan)

Craft Fur Minnr’ by Pat Kelly

 The Craft Fur Minnr’ is a quick and easy to tie baitfish pattern. No real history or fun stories attached with this one. Just a no nonsense streamer that fishes on a floating line just as well as it does on an intermediate. You can very easily slip a tungsten bead onto the hook shank and along with the lead keel and you have a great little streamer that does really well in smaller water pocket picking with a floating line! Stick with a lead wire keel and spin a small clump of deer hair at the head and now you have a fun and super swimmy buoyant fly that fishes great on an intermediate line. This fly can be tied as small as 2.5″ and as large as 5-6″.  Twist a few up and let us know how it works for you!

Step 1: Insert hook into vise and before starting thread attach some 0.025 lead wire and wrap 6-12 times down the bend of the hook. The number of wraps and size of lead wire can be adjusted to fly size and personal preference or objective. Once wire is in place lay a strip of UV Flex Resin to secure in place. 

Step 2: With your thread directly above the barb tie in a sparse bunch of craft fur. It helps to lay a small dollop of Z-Ment on your thread base before securing the craft fur. This will bond the craft to the hook and prevent it from spinning. Ideally your tie in point will be just above the hook’s barb forward to the end of the hooks point. 

Step 3: Using the same tie in point as the craft fur lay down a small bundle of Ostrich Herl and tie in. This step can be skipped if you want but I find the Ostrich adds some really nice extra movement to the tail of this fly. If you want to layer in some flash to your tail now would be the time to do so.

 

Step 4: Select another bundle of craft fur. This time a little more than you used for the tail and about 20% shorter. Lay the material on top of the hook so that the tips are facing forward (you will reverse tie the material) make three loose capturing wraps and spread the material evenly around the hook. Secure the material the rest of the way and push material back over itself and bullet tie into place. 

Step 5: Before proceeding forward I like to take a bundle of Ripple Ice Fiber and blend into the previous cone of craft fur. 

Step 6: Advance thread directly in front of your bullet tie. Tie in the Spectrum Glimmer Chenille and wrap tight side by side wraps approximately half way up the remaining shank length.

 

Step 7: Directly in front of your last tie off point you will tie in a clump of Craft Fur in white on the bottom of the hook shank and a clump of grey olive Craft Fur on the top. These will be reverse tied just as before. You will want each piece to be approximately the same length as the previous cone of Craft Fur, just a little more material. By doing so you will help bring shape and taper to the fly. Once secure push back and bullet tie in place to secure. 

Step 8: At this stage I will keep my thread where it is and add a generous clump of olive Ripple Ice Fiber. This will bring some flash into the fly but also add a nice darker shade and bring contrast to the fly….aka just looks a little cooler!

Step 9: Advance thread to just in front of your bullet tie. Center tie a clump of white Laser Dub on the bottom and do the same with a piece of olive Laser Dub for the top. Once both are in place, fold backwards and advance thread to just in front and build a small dam to help train the material rearwards. 

Step 10: Repeat the previous step as before. This should bring you to right behind the eye of the hook when finished. Whip finish to secure thread and cut off. 

Step 11: Take your favorite comb or brush and blend laser dub into the body of the fly. This will help bring the fly together and blend everything so the head and body seem as one. When finished, attach your favorite 3D eyes and coat with UV Flex resin.

 

Step 12: Just add water!

Recipe
Hook: Ahrex TP610 #2 
Thread: Veevus 6/0
0.025 Lead Wire
Craft Fur: White and Gray Olive
Ostrich Herl: White
Ripple Ice Fiber: Minnow Mix and Olive
Spectrum Glimmer Chenille: Olive
Senyo’s Laser Dub: White and Olive
Flymen Living Eyes: 7mm, color of choice
SolarEz Flex Resin
Hareline Bone Comb

Friday Flies: Winter Stone by Ryan Ratliff

Winter hatches in Ohio are very few if existent at all.  Once we get to late winter, the end of February and into March, we see the first hatch that the fish actually key in on.  Winter Stones, Little Black Stones, Snow Flies… they have many different local names.  These small aquatic insects have always gave me hope that the depths of winter are soon to be over.  Showing themselves as small black specks on the snowy bank or crawling up your waders, Winter Stones should find a place in your nymph box anytime you are targeting trout this time of the year.  

Thinking back to a few situations that stand out in my mind, I am reminded of a snowy evening on my local trout stream.  Many years ago I was able to spend a few hours fishing into the evening while large snow flakes fell slowly between the Hemlock and Rhododendron.  I love the quietness of snow falling around pine trees and this place is one of my favorites.  The fishing is what brought me there, but no matter how the fishing was the quietness is really what I was after.  This time I was awakened from the mindless repetition of slowly swinging streamers by a lone rise.  I did a second take and the rings on the water proved my questioning.  Earlier in the evening the snow banks and my waders were crawling with Winter Stones.  I had often seen this event, but never really focused on fishing these flies.  As the snow continued to fall many more rises were happening.  I waded out to the seam just down stream of the rising fish and held my net just under the waters surface.  I quickly saw Winter Stoneflies struggling to get out of the water and crawling up my net.  The next few days I stood waiting in the evenings for more of the Stoneflies to return to the water to drop eggs.  Even though there were plenty of freshly tied dries in my box no more risers were witnessed.  

The dry fly game with Winter Stones is not something to focus on with great success…at least not in this area.  Fishing the nymphs though will provide much greater success.  The nymphs do not swim or drift up to the surface, but crawl out on shore and then hatch.  As they crawl, they fall or get washed into the water.  Trout and Steelhead will key in on these bugs big time.  We will often switch to a black stone when the typical egg bite stops suddenly for Steelhead.  March and a little sun on a riffle is sometimes all it takes to make these bugs wake up from their winter slumber.  Give a Winter Stone a shot when things slow down this time of the year and you will most likely be surprised with the results.

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